There is a climb in the Peak District of the United Kingdom called The Sloth (HVS 5b or a scary Australian grade 19, YDS 5.10b/c).  This climb is naturally protected and hangs most of it’s length dominating the skyline on the approach.  It’s the sort of climb that your heart says, yeah but your head says nah, it is a test piece for the brave.  The reason I begin with The Sloth is that, para-athlete and climber, Jesse Dufton completed this climb in good style.  Jesse is blind.

Jesse Dufton on The Sloth in the Peak District of the United Kingdom. Photo Credit: Alastair Lee

Jesse’s loss of sight has been a gradual darkness, a genetic disorder where his eyes do not have the structural support for the light sensitive cells at the back of the eye which slowly has eroded his vision. The condition is called Rod-Cone Dystrophy.  Added to this Jesse has Astigmatism and Cataracts. Jesse is not very lucky in the eyes department. 

Like many athletes who flourish with a physical impairment, that has often led to a steely desire to achieve and, secondly, a strong support network, often family.  Jesse is no different. I asked him about how he fell into climbing and it turned out he didn’t have much choice in the matter.

“My dad is a keen mountaineer and taught me to trad climb. I led my first route at age eleven.  We didn't live in a good climbing location, but we would go away for weekends and had an annual trip to Fontainebleau. When I first went to the Font I was small enough to have a bath in a washing bowl.”

Even in his childhood he squinted for focus but he climbed with whatever school team or club he encountered. He was taking in as much as his eyes would permit and feeling his way into the climbing game.

“Before I lost my sight I used to enjoy looking at the mountains. My view was never good, as I couldn’t see clearly, but I got the general impression.”

At Bath University whilst completing an Undergraduate Degree and a PhD in Materials Chemistry, Jesse joined the Mountaineering Club and climbing became his obsession.  His dad must have known something and purchased Jesse’s first rack for his 18th birthday.

​When Jesse climbs he is calm and calculated. 

I drove Jesse crazy in my interview as he finds abstract ideas difficult.  He is a math-man, I am an arts-man and I admire him for persevering with me!  

The analytical approach serves climbers well in the mountains and, because of the decision making required in climbing, it exercises the brain, a stimulus for an academic. ​

Photo Credit: Alastair Lee

​“I bring a cool head and an analytic approach to a climb.”

Jesse doesn’t get distracted by exposure as he can’t see it and finds climbing doesn’t require as much concentration compared to the day to day life at ground level. Jesse, as a left side of the brain scientific type, is about making calculations based on probability and problem solving which, as a vision-impaired person, has assisted him to hone in on movement and feel to secure summits.

“I have a desire to do really cool climbing moves. I feel good if I get up something but if I am sloppy I won’t enjoy it as much. Doing hard climbs are fine but what I enjoy most is using really cool rock features and employing good technique.” 

It sounds a bit like Jesse is writing a thesis – the basis for a quality Doctorate in Climbing.

Jesse has had to search for insight to negotiate the challenges being in and around the mountains and the high tension moments on a climb, sometimes they come in the most unexpected of places. Jesse explained to me that the climb isn’t the most difficult part, more often it’s the approach. 

​​“Often a walk-in to a crag is along a narrow path with big drops and I'm not attached to anything. I can
tell from the tone of Molly’s voice when I'm in a don't fall section.”

Jesse leading The File, VS 4c at Higgar Tor in the Peak District, United Kingdom. Photo Credit: Alastair Lee

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Jesse shared with me one of the most challenging approaches he has experienced.

“I was on an approach to an alpine route in Chamonix, I think it was Aig. Moine (up on the Vert side of the Mer de Glace). We had to cross the moraine which was a nightmare. I didn't have any poles, it was a boulder field, and everything moved when I stood on it. I fell over constantly. Then we had to weave our way through a maze of crevasses (quite un-nerving when you can't see exactly where you need to jump from or to). This was followed with some overhanging ladders whilst carrying a huge pack. We didn't even get to do the route in the end, the weather closed in and kept us in our tent for 48 hours.”

Not having sight has had Jesse fine tune parts of his mind and body that people with sight would not even consider when climbing. The other senses play a large part in mountaineering or a rock-climbing ascent and even more acutely for Jesse.
​
“I don't know what it's like to use my eyes to guide me up. I just keep searching for higher holds by feel and moving up as best I can. I remember the route description and bear this in mind as I climb. For example I will be able to tell when I pull onto a party ledge and I will remember that the route description says I need to traverse left off the ledge so I will go to the edge of the ledge and start feeling for holds. I think one critical skill I use is proprioception. I build a 3D mental model of the route as I climb it and I imagine what it looks like. When I use a hold for my hand I remember where it is in 3D space and then try and move my foot straight to it.”

Sight also brings perspective to height and to distances which can affect, for better or worse, your headspace. I wanted to know if exposure presents itself differently to Jesse when climbing.

I don't think anything about climbing blind is easier, but people often ask if it helps that I can't see what's below me when I look down. I still know when I’m on an exposed part of the climb. The ambient sound is different, and you can often feel the wind buffeting you. I have my mental map of where I am, and I know if it's undercut beneath me. I have a mental counter for how long it was since I placed my last piece of gear and I know when I'm getting run-out. It's worse for me because I can't visually check my gear, so I can't see if that last piece was any good and know whether it will take a fall. I think the mental side of climbing is just as hard for me as for a sighted climber, if not more so. Fortunately I have a good head game and am quite good at keeping the Fear Genie in its bottle.”

What Jesse does not see that others do is that he is a remarkable climber. Oliver Mentz, a climber from Jesse’s neighbourhood stated it clearly,  “Jesse’s climbing is unique, full bodied and exhausting to watch.  He continually amazes me with his determination and drive.”

Jesse has had a solid family to assist him get a grip on losing his sight and in developing his academic and climbing career. Standing on the shoulders of giants assists all of us reach further. There is one person in particular who has enabled Jesse to go beyond functional into the incredible.  This person is his climbing partner and love of his life, Molly Thompson. 

Molly and Jesse met at University and were both heavily pulling down with the University Mountaineering Club in 2004 and became an item in 2007. After graduation both climbers had more time for each other and getting out on the rock and amongst the mountains.

Over the years the two have developed a high level Major Tom to Ground Control style of communication via headsets and Broadband.

“Molly directs me to holds that she can see from the floor/belay but she hasn't climbed the route before and has no extra beta other than what she can see. Molly gives the location of the next handhold using an imaginary clock face which is centred on the hand which isn't moving. The number dictates direction (9 is same level directly left) and we add a letter to denote how far away the hold is (a is 1 foot, b is 2 feet, c is 3 feet). For foot holds we usually just go with "by your shin, up, right, yes".

Photo Credit: Alastair Lee

​When Jesse climbs outside he relies on feel a lot more. When you can’t see, the more body contact you have, the more options present themselves.

Molly can't see which holds are good and which aren't. I just feel around until I get something I can use and move up. Molly does shout up the location of obvious holds she can see if I haven't already found them, and she will direct me to investigate cracks which might take bits of gear. When I’m climbing, Molly is usually pretty calm, if she can see I've placed some gear then she has confidence in me that it will hold and doesn't worry. I think that she is often concentrating hard on trying to spot holds for me and this takes up all her attention.”  

I asked Molly about her role in Jesse’s climbing.

Jesse relies on me for getting the beta right but sometimes this is difficult as I can’t always see. When this is likely to happen we discuss it beforehand what our plan of action will be, if I might lead it or [more often] compiling a detailed description of where to go. Jesse can let me know if what I am sharing with him is ridiculous and I modify the plan on the fly.”  ​

As Molly and Jesse explain this to me I am in awe.  We are not talking about a person slapping about on monster jugs on a top rope in a gym.  Jesse is leading the climb; he is climbing at a highly skilled level and doing moves which would confound many climbers.  

The communication Jesse and Molly utilise and the technology and terms they employ for safety and success is a marvel in itself.

Any person breaking barriers is sure to come unstuck at some stage and elaborate systems and well-practiced technique sometimes goes awry. A common issue that Jesse has is when climbing gets in the way of the headset and it is knocked off or when he and Molly lose contact as the cliff blocks radio transmission. Molly explains that, “Losing comms doesn’t come as a shock as we can plan ahead. If it happens we’re pretty good with dealing with whatever.”

These issues are negotiated but in essence Jesse is climbing blind having to find all the holds and gear placements by feel.

There was an occasion where I wasn't able to finish a pitch as normal. I couldn't find the correct line and I was starting to get a bit run out, so I down climbed the pitch back to Molly and she led that one. It was only a problem because it was a wandering line on a mountain crag. Most of the time if we lose the headsets I just finish the pitch as normal, build a belay and then bring Molly up. Even in the Peak District where the routes are short (~20m), the headsets almost always drop out when I pull over the top, it's not really a problem though.”

I am glad he finds no drama in that as I would be wigging out!
​
No climb is the same and quality climbing requires situational awareness. Being blind does not prohibit that person from developing these skills and Jesse’s calm approach to the climb and years of developing his craft means he is able to make decisions in the moment as climbing requires.  Jessie explained to me his skills and what happens at times when Molly can’t relay features to him as they may be out of her line of sight.  Often this requires rock knowledge and feel.

Often finding the footholds is the most difficult bit, I try to minimise scraping my shoes around to find a hold, I trash shoes quickly enough as it is. When I get to a tricky section and I need a foothold I often reach down and have a feel with my hand. Once I’ve found a reasonable foothold I remember where it is in 3D space and then move my foot straight to it. I have my shoes super tight so there is no movement of my foot within the shoe.  Over the years I have learnt the feelings for which footholds will stick and which won't. When I put my foot on something I think will stick, I just stand on it."

When you cannot see the holds but can still feel the burn of the pump you don’t have extra time to seek out alternative holds, something that climbers who can see may take for granted. Jesse has worked out a neat solution, “I often search for holds in the places I need them to stabilise my position rather than awkwardly looking out or down to try to spot which one looks best and using that. I feel around with my feet as well as with my hands.  I can feel the holds through my shoes.”

On the other end of the rope Jesse is solid, rigging belays with years of experience as his measure, testing each bit carefully and assisting Molly as she makes her way to him. 

The level of concentration for a climber who is unable to see is extraordinary, as every step and every gap needs Jesse to establish depth and distance before committing to a move. In comparison we automatically do it whilst Jesse is thinking every moment through.  What he has trained himself to do is remarkable in climbing and in athletic endeavour.

There is no greater evidence of these than on a climb of significance.  

Recently Jessie and Molly completed a route on the Old Man of Hoy. For those that don’t know, this is a 140m sandstone sea stack off the North Coast of Scotland.  If you were wearing a kilt on this thing it would turn your crown jewels to ice blocks. It’s one of those iconic climbs and Jesse was up for the challenge. His obsession with sea stacks started several years ago when he climbed the Old Man of Stoer (another Scottish sea stack, VS 5a), his dad came along for that climb.

Old Man of Hoy, a 140m sandstone sea stack in Scotland. Photo Credit: Alastair Lee

“Molly just noticed it flicking through the guidebook. We had an ace day climbing it and taking my dad along too. Well we actually needed two attempts, it's dad's fault, he didn't read the guidebook properly and from the anchor for the Tyrolean traverse at the base of the stack he sent me straight up (despite Molly's protestations). The original route traverses left onto the seaward face before a second pitch takes you up to the belay ledge that dad had spotted. Anyway, I did the direct pitch (probably HVS, Aus grade 18, YDS 5.10a) but dad was unable to second it, so we had to come back the next day and follow the original route the second time.”

Back to his recent ascent of The Old Man of Hoy, Jesse made the climb sound like a Sunday afternoon stroll.  Think of the decision making process, the crash of the ocean, the body dealing with a chill, the loose rock of a salt blasted sandstone sea stack and negotiating all this without sight.  Jesse, as is the way with rock stars, understated the climbing.

“The climbing was sandy in places but still excellent none the less. The first pitch was easy and the second was a traverse which was undercut.  There was a tricky step across a gap in the foot rail with no handhold to pull me onto my leading foot.”

The third pitch of the climb is the crux which requires the leader to jam through a wide crack into a roofed chimney which then narrows and traverses left to the lip of a roof which closes many climbers down.

“I managed to pass the crux, it wasn't easy but once I had found a foothold on the upper section to aim for I jammed and swung out from under the roof.”

Jesse cruised the forth and fifth pitch with pin point guiding from Molly avoiding the fulmars which require some bold climbing that had him arrive at the final pitch, way up high above a grey sea and exposed to the elements.

“The final pitch was awesome, not difficult just really nice moves up an open corner which was split by a cleft that comes down from the top of the stack.”

Molly shares the moment at the summit with Jesse.

“Topping out and seeing his massive grin was just the best. What an achievement.  We had done technically harder routes but the situation here was profound.  I was so proud.  We had a quick celebration on top by toasting our pork pies.”

How British.

Molly and Jesse at the top of Old Man Hoy. Photo Credit: Alastair Lee

I can only hypothesize what these clefts, overhands and sandy holds equate to in the mind of a climber with no sight? 

​Jesse’s euphoria at the summit and when meeting his second up there was the same feeling as any other climber after a hard fought battle.  I could picture only courage and feel humility as Jesse shared with me his experience on the Old Man of Hoy, as did the general public. The internet went wild and climbing journals and media throughout Great Britain could not get enough of Jesse and his ascent of such a landmark without the benefit of his sight.

Jesse’s climbing skills have enabled him to be a part of Great Britain’s Climbing Team which he competes internationally as a team member in the B1 Category for Para Athletes. Jesse also aspires to travel further abroad outside of Europe.

“I'd love to go ice climbing in Canada or go to somewhere like Indian Creek in Utah and have a go at some splitters. Crack lines are really good for me. It's almost impossible to go off-route and there is usually no problem getting gear in and making it safe. We're thinking of heading to South Africa and Argentina too.”

Wherever Jesse goes Molly will be there by his side. Spending time with these two on a day at the crag must be a highlight for any of their friends. Jesse’s audacity and calculated think-through when he is climbing is like taking a master class of mind control and in turn, he rains inspiration down on all those who look up to him cruising the moves.  

​What I do know is that Jesse Dufton is a climber who is on the rise and I am sure the holds he chooses to get him there will not be the easiest ones at the crag, champions don’t choose easy.